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65 pages 2 hours read

Jennifer Chiaverini

Mrs. Lincoln's Dressmaker

Fiction | Novel | Adult | Published in 2013

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Chapters 8-10Chapter Summaries & Analyses

Chapter 8 Summary

Elizabeth attends a church service during which her minister speaks passionately about God, Satan, and Abraham Lincoln. The congregation praises God for the emancipation proclamation and encourages all men capable of joining the Union Army to contribute to a Northern victory. Despite staying out late for the church service, Elizabeth wakes early the following morning to dress Mrs. Lincoln for a New Year’s celebration. Still in mourning, Mrs. Lincoln dresses in black. She intends to volunteer in a hospital for injured Union soldiers as a way to distract her from her grief.

Mr. Lincoln officially signs the Emancipation Proclamation into law on January 1, 1863. He makes two changes from the earlier draft: Emancipated people are allowed to defend themselves from violence and are officially allowed to enlist with the Union military. Elizabeth returns to her church, where she rejoices with her community. They march to the White House, thanking Mr. Lincoln for his leadership.

Mrs. Lincoln brightens emotionally when her two living sons, Robert and Tad, are with her. Still studying at Harvard, Robert frequently argues for permission to enlist in the Union Army. Mrs. Lincoln insists that Robert will be of better use to his country with a complete education. Mr. Lincoln believes Robert should fight for his country, and he reminds Mrs. Lincoln of mothers who have lost all of their sons to war.

Elizabeth falls into severe debt while assisting the financial needs of the Contraband Relief Association. Learning of her predicament, Mrs. Lincoln offers to introduce Elizabeth to the secretary of the treasury, who seeks an employee to cut paper money. Elizabeth could continue her sewing business while bolstering her income with this position. Although Elizabeth is overqualified for the job, she is denied the role because of her skin color. More outraged than Elizabeth, Mrs. Lincoln commits to finding a different position that will accept her friend.

After a rejuvenating family trip to visit the Army of the Potomac, the Lincolns return to Washington City with bolstered optimism about the war. Mrs. Lincoln suggests Elizabeth apply for a military pension, one she is entitled to after George’s death. Knowing George enlisted illegally before men of color were permitted to take arms, Elizabeth worries authorities will deny her the income. Mrs. Lincoln connects Elizabeth with lawyers who advise her to lie by stating she was married to Mr. Kirkland, the white man who sexually assaulted her. Disgusted with this idea, Elizabeth initially refuses; however, she ultimately decides unjust laws are not an acceptable reason for her to lose out on George’s pension. She will use these funds to help people of color in need, finding her dishonesty more honorable than not. Two respected ministers of Washington City swear by Elizabeth’s character as she completes all necessary legalities to receive George’s pension, which helps ease Elizabeth’s conscience. Without taking on more work, Elizabeth’s monthly budget increases so that she may live comfortably while still carrying out her philanthropic efforts.

Spring 1863 sees multiple bloody battles, thousands of lives lost, and several Union defeats. All of Washington City transforms into a hospital for wounded soldiers, the stench of rotting flesh and death heavy in the warming air. Elizabeth sits with Mrs. Lincoln, who grows increasingly worried about Mr. Lincoln’s safety as he walks around Washington City without personal security. Although disheartened, Elizabeth observes Mr. Lincoln take comfort in reading his Bible, specifically the Book of Job.

Still grieving the loss of her young sons, Mrs. Lincoln hires several spiritual mediums to conduct seances in the hopes of contacting Willie and Eddie. Elizabeth encourages Mrs. Lincoln to view these meetings skeptically. Nearly all of the mediums warn Mrs. Lincoln that her husband’s life is in grave danger.

Chapter 9 Summary

Alongside friends, Elizabeth takes pride in the newly established Bureau of Colored Troops that fights with the Union Army. Mrs. Lincoln and Tad travel north for an early summer retreat. Virginia Lewis delivers a healthy baby girl during that time, naming Elizabeth the child’s godmother. Elizabeth finds the timing of her goddaughter’s birth ideal, enjoying a break from sewing Mrs. Lincoln’s wardrobe while attending to Virginia and the baby.

However, Mrs. Lincoln returns early in July after suffering from a head injury during a carriage accident. Luckily, Mrs. Lincoln fell from her carriage and landed directly in front of an army hospital, and she received immediate medical attention. Authorities later discover intentional damage to the bolts holding the carriage together. Mrs. Lincoln realizes that the vandalism was intended to harm or kill Mr. Lincoln, and her concern for her husband’s well-being grows. Mrs. Lincoln feels grateful that Tad wasn’t in the carriage, opting to remain in Philadelphia with friends.

Mrs. Lincoln plans a jubilant Independence Day celebration despite her injury. The people of Washington City are on edge as the Confederate army advances closer to the city while also pushing into Pennsylvania. Moreover, thousands of citizens rally against the Union’s military draft, the first in the nation’s history. Mrs. Lincoln insists that the celebrations continue regardless of the threat of Confederate invasion, wanting to bolster the fighting spirit of the North. However, Mrs. Lincoln’s head wound becomes infected, causing her great pain and threatening her life. Mr. Lincoln frantically paces her bedroom, summoning Robert from Harvard.

While Mrs. Lincoln fights for her life, Robert Lincoln goes missing for several days while traveling to Washington City. His last known location, New York City, turns violent as protesters wreak havoc on the city while denouncing the draft. Elizabeth observes Mr. Lincoln grow increasingly concerned for his family and country. He appears overwhelmed and vulnerable. Finally, Robert arrives, bringing Mr. Lincoln great comfort. The New York State militia restores order to New York, and the Union Army celebrates several victories. Robert escorts Mrs. Lincoln and Tad to a country estate in Vermont for a convalescing period. Elizabeth declines an invitation to accompany Mrs. Lincoln, needing to oversee her business and continue volunteer work with the Contraband Relief Association. Walking in front of the White House, Elizabeth overhears two young politicians refer to Mrs. Lincoln as a “hellcat” and Mr. Lincoln as a “Tycoon.” She addresses the men sternly; they immediately apologize. Elizabeth realizes these men likely experienced their first scolding from a woman of color. She acknowledges that the men recognized her, a testament to her growing reputation.

Mrs. Lincoln stays away from Washington City for two months. At this time, the Union Army observes victory on the battlefield, including Gettysburg and Vicksburg. Several of Mrs. Lincoln’s family members die in battle while she recovers. Mrs. Lincoln discusses the losses with Elizabeth when she returns to Washington City. Surprisingly, Mrs. Lincoln does not grieve her siblings and in-laws who fight for the Confederate Army. Elizabeth finds this strange but feels grateful that Mrs. Lincoln isn’t overwhelmed with her grief again.

Mrs. Lincoln refuses to attend Miss Kate Chase’s wedding, an intentional snub to the socialite who believes her father should be president. Elizabeth wishes Mrs. Lincoln would rise above the petty interpersonal drama but later rejoices in Mrs. Lincoln’s decision to remain home as Tad becomes severely ill. Drawn away by presidential responsibilities, Mrs. Lincoln accuses Mr. Lincoln of deprioritizing his family. After a few years of observing the Lincolns’ spats, Elizabeth recognizes the tender, loving demeanor of Mr. Lincoln; while Mrs. Lincoln occasionally allows emotional distress to develop into anger, she always apologizes and reconciles, showing much affection to her husband. Mr. Lincoln leaves for a new national cemetery in Gettysburg, causing Mrs. Lincoln extreme distress. However, she soon feels embarrassed when Tad recovers from his illness. Mr. Lincoln returns from Gettysburg with a mild case of smallpox, and Mrs. Lincoln lovingly attends to her husband as he isolates at the White House.

Over Thanksgiving, Mr. Lincoln addresses national issues separate from the Civil War, recognizing the growth and industriousness of the nation. Mrs. Lincoln and Elizabeth exchange personal gratitude for each other and the recovering health of Tad and Mr. Lincoln. Privately, Elizabeth feels thankful for Mr. Lincoln’s accomplishments throughout the year, most of all for ushering in a new age of freedom. As Christmas approaches, Elizabeth arrives at the White House to find Mrs. Lincoln’s younger sister visiting. Mrs. Helm, a Confederate supporter, surprises the Lincolns with her arrival, and Mrs. Lincoln asks Elizabeth to stay away for a few days while discussing matters with her sister privately. Mrs. Helm’s husband was recently killed in battle.

Although comforted by Mrs. Helm’s visit, Mrs. Lincoln’s little sister’s presence in the White House causes a small political scandal. A visiting senator baits Mrs. Helm into an argument about the war before accusing Robert Lincoln of neglecting his responsibilities with the Union Army by remaining in college. Tad and Mrs. Helm’s young son argue over who leads the country, Mr. Lincoln or Jefferson Davis. Mrs. Helm ends her White House visit before the holidays, much to Mr. Lincoln’s chagrin. Mrs. Lincoln and Elizabeth discuss how the war has somehow ripped apart nearly every American family. Elizabeth helps Mrs. Lincoln prepare her holiday wardrobe, delighted that Mrs. Lincoln will finally forgo her black mourning attire.

Chapter 10 Summary

1864 brings an election year and much political pressure to the Lincolns. Mr. Chase, the secretary of the treasury and the father of Mrs. Lincoln’s biggest socialite rival, campaigns against Mr. Lincoln for the presidency. Mrs. Lincoln attempts to block his invitations to levees at the White House, but Mr. Lincoln’s personal secretary insists, referring to Mrs. Lincoln as “her satanic majesty” (158). While preparing for a state dinner, Mr. Lincoln speaks with Elizabeth about the concern, comparing Mr. Chase to a workhorse attacked by a chin-fly. He believes Mr. Chase masterfully runs the treasury, if only to prove himself a worthy presidential candidate. Elizabeth consoles Mrs. Lincoln as she prepares to host her husband’s rivals while privately siding with Mr. Lincoln about remaining cordial with his adversaries.

Mr. Chase endures several scandals while working as secretary of the treasury and campaigning for president. A widespread sexual misconduct scandal occurs on Mr. Chase’s watch; several female employees at the treasury testify against the superintendent of Engraving and Printing, accusing him of sexual extortion. Soon after, Mr. Chase forfeits his short-lived run for president. Several other potential candidates surface, most withdrawing on their own accord. Mrs. Lincoln often meets with influential, although notorious, men in New York City while campaigning for Mr. Lincoln. Elizabeth dislikes Mrs. Lincoln’s association with these people as much as she disapproves of Mrs. Lincoln’s complete abandonment of her budget. Mrs. Lincoln sustains a sizable debt while purchasing expensive goods and jewelry. Reporters notice her spending habits and label her purchases appalling and distasteful while thousands are suffering during the war.

General Grant pushes the Union Army closer to Richmond, the Confederate capital, as the election nears. Elizabeth reassures Mrs. Lincoln that Mr. Lincoln will win reelection, comforting her with her logical thinking. Mrs. Lincoln confides in Elizabeth the extent of her personal debts. Mrs. Lincoln fears for her and Mr. Lincoln’s reputations should he not win reelection, and the couple cannot pay the thousands of dollars she owes high-end clothing and jewelry stores in New York City. Fearful that her husband’s enemies will discover the extent of her debt and use that information against Mr. Lincoln in the election, Mrs. Lincoln grows increasingly agitated. She considers insisting the Republican party pay off her debts, but Elizabeth convinces her to keep the issue private. Meanwhile, Mrs. Lincoln continues to overspend, adding to her debts and worsening her problems.

In early July, the Confederate Army advances dangerously close to Washington City. Although Mrs. Lincoln remains away from the city with Tad, Mr. Lincoln oversees skirmishes encroaching on the capital, resorting to enlisting a civilian army to protect the city. With the assistance of Union soldiers, the citizens force the Confederates to retreat. Mrs. Lincoln worries about the optics of this near-catastrophe, believing it will hinder Mr. Lincoln’s chances of being reelected. Elizabeth confidently reassures Mrs. Lincoln that Mr. Lincoln will win, and she asks to keep his right-hand glove from his inaugural ball as a souvenir after he wins reelection. Mrs. Lincoln also fears for Robert, who finally enlists with the Union Army against his mother’s wishes. The Union capture of Atlanta motivates Mr. Lincoln to speak confidently about the war and the election. He wins reelection in November, and Elizabeth privately rejoices his victory in her boarding house.

Chapters 8-10 Analysis

Elizabeth and Mrs. Lincoln both see the ghosts of their loved ones, symbolizing how they are each haunted by their trauma. Mrs. Lincoln feels comforted at the sight of her deceased children: “[she] clung to her belief that her dear sons Willie and Eddie did indeed appear to her, not only amid a séance but beside her bed at night, waking her from sleep to assure her they were together and happy in heaven” (136). Mrs. Lincoln struggles to accept a world where her children don’t exist. She sees their happy faces as a way to cope with the trauma of watching her children succumb to illness. In contrast, Elizabeth feels disturbed by her daydreams and sightings of George. Self-disciplined, Elizabeth doesn’t allow herself to think about how George’s life might have turned out had he lived. Instead, Elizabeth takes inspiration from George’s ambition, taking altruistic action that carries out George’s legacy.

While Mr. Lincoln also occasionally admits to seeing his own ghosts, he strives to take guidance from his religion. Elizabeth relates to Mr. Lincoln’s Christian views. After receiving troubling news from the War Department, he “took a small Bible from a stand near the head of the sofa [...] Soon he was engrossed in reading [...]his expression seemed greatly changed, almost cheerful” (134). Like Mr. Lincoln, Elizabeth finds her church a place of inspiration and action. Elizabeth enjoys knowing she and the president share this common appreciation for their religion, strengthening her faith in the president’s ability to make the best possible decisions for people of color. Elizabeth attempts to influence Mrs. Lincoln to grow skeptical of her spiritual advisors, who claim to see and speak with Eddie and Willie, trusting the Lincolns’ pastor to provide more practical guidance.

Elizabeth again demonstrates the Resilience and Agency of Black American Women with her leadership and charity in the Contraband Relief Camps. Elizabeth speaks realistically to her congregation, “‘The newly liberated have not been welcomed, but repelled,’ said Elizabeth, ‘and their bright, joyous dreams of freedom are fading in the presence of that stern, practical mistress, reality’” (103). While others look away from the newly arrived people of color who suffer while living in poor conditions, Elizabeth inspires altruistic action. She feels morally responsible for helping those in need. She does not allow her grief and past traumas to turn her into a bitter, uncaring person. Instead, Elizabeth uses her experiences to understand and empathize with people who lack the skills and abilities to overcome poverty, never blaming anyone who finds themselves in the Contraband Relief Camps.

Consequences for Families of Public Figures, another of the novel’s central themes, develops with Mrs. Lincoln’s overspending and her conflict with Kate Chase. Mrs. Lincoln refuses to attend Kate’s wedding out of spite, as her father runs against Mr. Lincoln for reelection. Elizabeth fears “her critics would concoct their wild theories that would invariably cast her in an unflattering light” (148). Even when Mrs. Lincoln attempts to support her husband by boycotting his adversaries, she is perceived negatively. She is criticized for lack of style while simultaneously enduring disapproval for purchasing finery. She cannot win. Moreover, Mrs. Lincoln feels personally responsible for improving her reputation to ensure Mr. Lincoln’s political agenda and career remain secure.

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