Mrs. Lincoln's Dressmaker

“For a long moment, Elizabeth stood watching after them, a bit confounded, marveling at all that she had seen. ‘George will never believe this,’ she murmured as she drew on her shawl and collected her satchel. Yet she had observed the scene with her own eyes.”

Although never in each other’s presence, Elizabeth’s relationship with her son is interpreted as loving and strong in the subtle ways they think of each other. Elizabeth, a now trusted friend of the first family, witnesses the grandeur of a presidential ball, immediately thinking of George and wanting to tell him about the spectacle. Later, George’s death is all the more tragic, knowing how important he was to Elizabeth.

“Elizabeth did not often disagree with the president, but in this case, she did not share his opinion in the slightest. Mrs. Lincoln’s beautifully formed shoulders and neck were her best features, and the gown’s low neckline set them off to great advantage.”

Mr. Lincoln and Elizabeth share many commonalities, so much so that Elizabeth startles upon disagreeing with the president, even about something as minor as Mrs. Lincoln’s dress style. By drawing attention to Mrs. Lincoln’s neck and referencing her features in general, Elizabeth illustrates an intimate familiarity with the first lady. Elizabeth and Mr. Lincoln provide a team of support and love to an emotionally delicate character.

“A few weeks later in early April, the Union defeated the Confederates at Shiloh in Tennessee, but it was the bloodiest battle of the war so far, with more than thirteen thousand killed, wounded, or missing on the Union side and nearly eleven thousand for the South. Among those killed was Mrs. Lincoln’s half brother Samuel B. Todd, an officer serving with the Twenty-fourth Louisiana. His death reminded Mrs. Lincoln’s critics of her family ties to secessionists and stirred up the old, groundless questions about her loyalties—a monstrous thing to do at such a time, Elizabeth thought.”

Chiaverini grounds her fictional account in historically factual events and people like the Battle of Shiloh and Samuel Todd, blending accurate information with her character development. Elizabeth’s opinions on the happenings set a more approachable tone, establishing an insider’s view of the fictional version of the historical events. Characteristic of biographical historical fiction, Elizabeth’s emotional reactions assist in bringing life and filling in the gaps as to how the actual historical figures might have felt while enduring tragedy.

“Elizabeth was not friendless, helpless, and forsaken. She had lost her son, but in this she was not unlike many other mothers in those perilous days of war. She had many friends. She had the patronage of Mrs. Lincoln and many other ladies of quality in Washington.”

Elizabeth reacts negatively to being portrayed as a victim in a news story highlighting her success. She refuses to see herself that way, choosing instead to focus on the positives in her life, especially her friendships. Elizabeth’s capacity to continuously count her blessings is one of her more exemplary characteristics.

“[S]he discovered that the president was reading from the Book of Job. Greatly moved, Elizabeth could almost imagine hearing the Lord speaking to him in a thunderous voice from the whirlwind of battle: ‘Gird up thy loins now like a man: I will demand of thee, and declare thou unto me.’”

Elizabeth inspires auditory imagery through her description of Mr. Lincoln’s bible. She witnesses a religious influence on Mr. Lincoln, another show of Elizabeth’s close familiarity with the first family. Using simile to describe God’s voice as thunderous, Elizabeth believes the lord has a powerful, commanding effect on Mr. Lincoln.

“‘If you ask me, ‘the time’ arrived months ago and has been sitting idle outside the president’s office ever since,’ said Elizabeth dryly. It was unlike her to say anything critical of the president, whom she admired and respected greatly, but on this subject, like emancipation, she found herself made impatient by his inexplicable, unhelpful delays.”

Elizabeth never loses her composure with Mr. and Mrs. Lincoln; her worst offense is speaking about them “dryly.” Having endured nearly 40 years as an enslaved person, it would be understandable for Elizabeth to exhibit a fraction of the emotional response that Mrs. Lincoln so frequently displays while waiting for the Emancipation Proclamation. The way each woman responds to political discontent could not be more different.

“One morning, she announced that she would put off her mourning weeds on the first day of January and begin the New Year afresh. Delighted, Elizabeth immediately began working on a new gown for Mrs. Lincoln to wear to the annual New Year’s Day reception. What a pleasure it would be to attire her most visible patron in something other than black silk and crepe after such a long time.”

Mrs. Lincoln looks forward to a new, colorful dress made by Elizabeth, one of the first pleasures she enjoys after Willie’s death. This illustrates how meaningful Elizabeth’s work is to Mrs. Lincoln. Likewise, Elizabeth enjoys once again bringing color and style into the first lady’s wardrobe as much as she enjoys brightening her friend’s demeanor.

“Women employees were reportedly hired for their personal attractions rather than their skills, and several young ladies claimed that they were refused employment until they yielded to the passionate embraces of the superintendent of the Bureau of Engraving and Printing.”

Although much of Mrs. Lincoln’s Dressmaker illustrates racial inequality, the novel occasionally reflects prejudice against women during the Civil War. Limited in career choices, women able to work outside the home faced sexual harassment, as represented by the scandal at the Treasury Department. No stranger to sexual violence, Elizabeth must overcome sexual inequality as well as racial injustice.

“The people of the North recognize in him an honest man, and they are willing to confide in him, at least until the war has been brought to a close. The Southern people made his election a pretext for rebellion, and now to replace him by someone else, after years of sanguinary war, would look too much like a surrender of the North.”

More than a skilled dressmaker, Elizabeth frequently exhibits competence in understanding the nation’s political climate. Elizabeth repeatedly rebukes her enslavers for failing to educate her, and for good reason: Elizabeth is brilliant. While she personally wants Mr. Lincoln to win his second election, she has enough unbiased foresight to predict what will likely happen at the polls accurately.

“‘But it will be so hard for colored folks in the South when the war is done.’ Martha managed a smile. ‘It’s always been hard, and we’ve always gotten by.’”

Elizabeth feels unsettled in seeing her old friends accept hardships without taking action to make improvements. Merely getting by goes against Elizabeth’s nature as she continuously strives to improve herself. Elizabeth recognizes that poverty and hatred are typical for her friends, who cannot envision a more manageable lifestyle. She feels frustrated by the slow pace of progress.

“Mrs. Lincoln could not bear to hear her youngest son cry, and with a great effort, she clasped him to her heart and struggled to calm herself, but she could not restrain her grief for long, and soon it burst forth again, alarming and heart wrenching to behold.”

Mrs. Lincoln’s intense grief after the death of Mr. Lincoln verifies her profound love and commitment to the man. She only attempts to control her emotions for Tad’s sake, a testament to her desire to be a strong mother. Elizabeth feels protective of her friend, recognizing her incredible heart.

“To Elizabeth Mrs. Lincoln presented the bonnet and cloak she had worn that terrible night, stained with the president’s blood, as well as Mr. Lincoln’s overshoes and the comb and brush that Elizabeth had often used to dress his hair. They were precious mementos of the great man, and Elizabeth accepted them with deepest gratitude.”

The items Mrs. Lincoln bestows upon Elizabeth represent the significance of Elizabeth’s relationship to the first family. The bonnet and cloak stained with Mr. Lincoln’s blood express Mr. Lincoln and Elizabeth’s desire to shelter Mrs. Lincoln. The shoes signify Mr. Lincoln’s strides to bring freedom and equality to people of color. The brush and comb are a nod to the personal care Elizabeth shows the first family.

“Elizabeth, still unhappy with her reluctant decision to accompany Mrs. Lincoln, pressed her lips together rather than declare that she wished Mrs. Lincoln’s foresight with regard to the future had not been confined to the present moment, and to worn-out clothing. Patience, she counseled herself. She knew she was tired and disgruntled, and grieving too in her own way.”

With Mr. Lincoln no longer acting as a buffer, Elizabeth more easily grows frustrated with Mrs. Lincoln’s ignorance. Elizabeth knows Mrs. Lincoln believes herself to be higher born than Elizabeth; consequently, speaking openly with Mrs. Lincoln will be a lost cause. Elizabeth demonstrates restraint and irritation by describing the physical action of pressing her lips together.

“‘The most popular modiste in Washington City, that’s who.’ Emma swept her arm toward the busy workroom, where all of her assistants were industriously sewing, sitting up straight as she had taught them to avoid backaches and neck strain.”

Illustrating a more genuine friendship, Emma and Elizabeth often speak openly with each other, feeling free to express their opinions. Emma builds up her friend’s confidence and self-esteem at a time when Elizabeth questions her decisions. She recognizes Elizabeth’s legacy: the women Elizabeth hires and teaches complicated sewing techniques.

“When she told Virginia and Emma about Mrs. Longstreet’s visit and the letters she had sent to Miss Anne and her daughters, Emma shook her head in wonder, frowning. ‘I don’t know why you miss them so. I never, never wish to see any of my masters or mistresses again.’”

Emma and Elizabeth feel free to disagree with each other openly. While Elizabeth doesn’t always take Emma’s advice, she listens to her friend and considers her perspective. Emma’s inability to forgive her former enslavers represents how forgiveness isn’t mandatory and cannot be forced.

“She would not trade places with her former mistress, Elizabeth realized, despite Miss Anne’s privileges and advantages. She was proud of all she had done for herself without them, and she was proud of the woman she had become.”

Elizabeth acknowledges limitations often placed on women in advantageous situations, restricted from working to support themselves and make their own life choices. Although Miss Anne doesn’t enjoy a more leisurely lifestyle, Elizabeth knows and values the lessons and sense of accomplishment that accompany supporting herself.

“Elizabeth could not count how many kind, affectionate phrases she had heard Mr. Lincoln speak to his wife through the years. Admittedly, they had quarreled from time to time, but so did every husband and wife of Elizabeth’s acquaintance, and however hotly their tempers flared, Mr. and Mrs. Lincoln had always been anxious to make up soon afterward.”

Elizabeth views Mr. and Mrs. Lincoln’s “hot” tempers as an indicator of their passionate love and affection for each other. Her own romantic relationship fizzling out, Elizabeth recognizes lasting adoration when she sees it. While others spread conspiracy theories about the first family, Elizabeth acknowledges the reality of Mr. and Mrs. Lincoln’s loving relationship.

“If Mrs. Lincoln’s example had taught her nothing else, it had shown her that the only way to redeem oneself from scandal was to live an exemplary life every day thereafter. And that was precisely what Elizabeth intended to do.”

Elizabeth still thinks highly of Mrs. Lincoln after the “old clothes” scandal and Mrs. Lincoln’s harsh response to Elizabeth’s memoir. Although Mrs. Lincoln inspires her to live an exemplary life, her decision speaks volumes about Elizabeth’s strong character.

“For weeks afterward, Elizabeth was haunted by visions of Mrs. Lincoln languishing in a cold, ominous institution, devoid of all warmth and comfort. She imagined her keening endlessly as she had when Willie died, weeping and shrieking as she had after Mr. Lincoln had been killed.”

Ghosts and premonitions symbolize regrets and past trauma throughout Mrs. Lincoln’s dressmaker. Elizabeth is “haunted” by intrusive images of Mrs. Lincoln suffering, representing her regret in failing to reconcile. Moreover, these ghostly images remind Elizabeth of the traumatic weeks after Willie and Mr. Lincoln’s death.

“With all hopes of reconciliation forever lost, Elizabeth no longer had any reason to finish the medallion quilt, but while the nation mourned and remembered and eulogized the former First Lady, she found herself compelled to take the unfinished top from the trunk.”

Elizabeth’s medallion quilt symbolizes the significance of her own skill and talent as much as it represents the dresses and events attended by Mrs. Lincoln. Although meant as a gift for Mrs. Lincoln, Elizabeth finishes the quilt for herself, representing a turning point in which Elizabeth dismantles the belief that she deserves less than Mrs. Lincoln.

“I was Mr. Lincoln’s friend, am his friend now, and will always protect his memory by keeping my mouth closed concerning the many things which he unhappily suspected or imagined were going on around him officially and unofficially.”

Elizabeth values loyalty above nearly all else. She guards what personal information she has about the Lincolns, protecting their privacy eternally. Doing so underscores her dedication to her friends.

“You who have never suffered cannot understand the full meaning of liberty.”

As her life draws to a close, Elizabeth doesn’t feel the need to tell people what they want to hear. She challenges Mr. Fry’s understanding of liberty, exposing his privilege of enjoying freedom without ever having known a life without it. Elizabeth brings to light that liberty and freedom have different meanings to people of color.

“‘I was born a slave, but bought my freedom, and so was under no obligations to Mr. Lincoln for emancipation,’ she said. ‘But I loved him for his kind manner toward me and for his great act of giving freedom to my race. I know what liberty is, because I remember what slavery was.’”

Elizabeth’s favorable opinion of Mr. Lincoln is not transactional; she fought for her own freedom before Mr. Lincoln signed the Emancipation Proclamation. Elizabeth chooses to speak of Mr. Lincoln with reverence without owing him anything.