65 pages • 2 hours read
Jennifer ChiaveriniMrs. Lincoln's Dressmaker
Fiction | Novel | Adult | Published in 2013A modern alternative to SparkNotes and CliffsNotes, SuperSummary offers high-quality Study Guides with detailed chapter summaries and analysis of major themes, characters, and more.
Themes
Resilience and Agency of Black American Women
Elizabeth Keckley manifests unstoppable capability, ambition, and determination at every stage of her life and in the face of significant racism and prejudice. Although Chiaverini primarily focuses on Elizabeth’s experiences as a business owner during the Civil War, Elizabeth recalls overcoming hardships endured while enslaved. Perhaps the most egregious of Elizabeth’s abuse was the rape she survived as a teenager, resulting in George’s conception: “George was the product of rape, the offspring of a liaison she had never desired [...] Elizabeth would suffer for what would be perceived as her sexual indiscretion” (129). Not only does Elizabeth endure the trauma of rape, but she is also forced into motherhood and shamed for delivering a baby out of wedlock. The layers of severe injustice do not impede Elizabeth’s determination to build a better life for herself. Elizabeth develops into an excellent mother, showering George with love, purchasing his freedom, and ensuring he is thoroughly educated. Simultaneously, Elizabeth works diligently towards her personal goal of owning a reputable, successful dressmaking business. Elizabeth’s volunteer work with the Contraband Relief Association illustrates how she never forgets her origins, though she builds a better life for herself with her resilience and agency.
As a small business owner, Elizabeth sets sizeable goals for herself. Still, she respects her independence and outlines firm boundaries with her patrons. Knowing a relationship with the first lady will lead to more business, Elizabeth chooses to accept a lofty tailoring job from the newly appointed first lady:
Elizabeth was obliged to work all day long and late into the night, barely pausing to eat and sleep and work the knots out of her neck, back, and fingers. It took a small miracle, but somehow, after much worry and trouble, Elizabeth completed the dress by midmorning (22).
Elizabeth doesn’t shy away from strenuous work; however, she only troubles herself with difficult labor on her terms. Later, Elizabeth turns away work, acknowledging how “She was a free woman, free to ignore unreasonable demands” (24). Elizabeth understands her limitations and demonstrates self-respect by turning away work when she doesn’t feel up to arduous demands. By the end of the Civil War, Elizabeth turns away jobs from people who do not share her political views.
Unlike Mrs. Lincoln, Elizabeth does not expect anyone to care for her in old age. She supports herself as best she can, working as a professor in her seventies and enjoying a modest lifestyle upon retirement. “She had lived a full and fascinating life. [...] Despite its disappointments and losses and heartbreaks, she would not have wished her life a single day shorter” (350). Even in old age, Elizabeth demonstrates resilience in her ability to remain positive and find a way to provide for herself without depending on others. She attempts a new career at a time when most people, even in modern times, enjoy retirement. She thrives as a professor, further illustrating her capable and irrepressible nature.
Complexities in Friendship Across Racial and Social Divides
Although Mrs. Lincoln and Elizabeth care deeply for each other, their friendship is more complex due to their difference in race and social status. Mrs. Lincoln often treats Elizabeth as a servant, occasionally expecting her to work without pay. Believing she is above Elizabeth in social standing and entitled to a more leisurely lifestyle, Mrs. Lincoln fails to reciprocate Elizabeth’s support and empathy when Elizabeth experiences loss. When Elizabeth joins Mrs. Lincoln in New York to sell her clothes and jewelry, Elizabeth realizes Mrs. Lincoln “was so frank and impulsive that she never gave enough thought to how her words and deeds could be misconstrued” (291). Mrs. Lincoln’s life of privilege builds tremendous ignorance, which Elizabeth finds shocking. Elizabeth feels frustrated at her friend’s limited worldview, which causes more damage to Elizabeth than Mrs. Lincoln. Retiring to her hotel room with no dinner, Elizabeth realizes, “Mrs. Lincoln could have ordered dinner to be served to Elizabeth in her room, so that she would not have had to retire hungry” (291). Elizabeth’s assistance with the “old clothes” project is a favor to Mrs. Lincoln. She makes many sacrifices to help her former patron without any insurance that she will receive compensation for her labor (she never does). Securing a hotel that doesn’t have a racist manager is the least that Mrs. Lincoln could do in consideration of her friend. Not for the first time, Mrs. Lincoln fails to consider Elizabeth’s needs or how the world reacts differently to her friend of color.
While Mr. and Mrs. Lincoln respect and value Elizabeth’s views, their political opinions and comments occasionally hit Elizabeth as racially insensitive. After Mr. Lincoln disallows men of color from enlisting in the Union Army, Elizabeth agrees with her pastor:
‘A man who wants to win a fight doesn’t approach his enemy with one hand tied behind his back,’ the minister said. ‘If your house is on fire, and a black man offers you a bucket of water, do you refuse it? If you are drowning, and a black man reaches out to haul you to shore, do you tread water and hope a white man happens by before you go under, or do you seize that dusky limb and live?’ (116).
While Mr. Lincoln believes he protects people of color from the dangers of war, he fails to realize how demeaning this restriction feels to the Black community. Elizabeth recognizes that the people in her community are more invested in a Union victory than others. Elizabeth believes her presence in the White House influences the president. When Mr. Lincoln eventually announces the formation of The Bureau of Colored Troops, it brings tremendous pride to Elizabeth and her friends.
In contrast to the Lincolns, Elizabeth’s close friendships with Virginia Lewis and Emma Stevens demonstrate a more genuine relationship. Upon the first Christmas after Geroge’s passing, Elizabeth recognizes, “Her friends were so gracious and easy that it wasn’t until later that Elizabeth realized that they were each taking care to amuse and divert her, knowing that her first Christmas without her son was bound to be mournful” (73-74). Unlike Virginia and Emma, Mrs. Lincoln rarely supports Elizabeth in any way that doesn’t yield a return advantage for herself. Although she claims Elizabeth is her closest friend, Mrs. Lincoln views herself as more important and entitled to privilege than Elizabeth. Elizabeth travels across the country on multiple occasions to support Mrs. Lincoln; however, Elizabeth only receives a letter of condolence from Mrs. Lincoln when George dies. The unreciprocated love and support become more evident to Elizabeth through the ages, especially when Mrs. Lincoln fails to forgive Elizabeth for her memoir. However, Elizabeth can more clearly recognize and celebrate her achievements in Mrs. Lincoln’s absence.
Consequences for Families of Public Figures
Before Mr. Lincoln enters the White House, Mrs. Lincoln becomes the subject of harsh, insulting criticism in public and private circles. Elizabeth detests hearing disapproval of her new friend, finding “criticism of her newest and most important patron would be unrelenting, coming from all corners in copious amounts, much to the dismay and consternation of its unhappy subject” (38). Mrs. Lincoln cannot win anyone’s approval, though she desperately wants to support Mr. Lincoln’s political career with a more popular reputation. An opinionated woman, Mrs. Lincoln often isolates herself socially for speaking her mind and offending her husband’s colleagues. Undoubtedly, her critics’ negative opinions have more to do with Mr. Lincoln’s political action. The consequences prove severe for Mrs. Lincoln’s emotional state; she reports feeling profoundly isolated and lonely, wishing for more supportive friends.
In the immediate aftermath of Mr. Lincoln’s assassination, the country betrays Mrs. Lincoln by continuing to shower her with harsh criticism and failing to ensure her safety and well-being. For instance, the White House was gutted by thieves wanting a souvenir after Mr. Lincoln’s assassination; however, false narratives emerged about Mrs. Lincoln stealing the White House’s furnishings: “Mrs. Lincoln passed her lonely days feeling neglected and impoverished in remote Hyde Park, the public was gleefully relishing the new campaign against her, devouring each new sordid tale” (250). At a time when she experiences immeasurable grief, Mrs. Lincoln unwillingly takes the blame for an indecency she didn’t commit. Many political leaders in Washington City only enjoy their positions of power because Mr. Lincoln assigned them their lucrative roles. Still, they refuse to assist Mrs. Lincoln financially, not wanting to associate themselves with a lowly thought of individual. Mrs. Lincoln’s morale suffers in addition to her ability to provide for herself, Tad, and Robert.
Forgiveness as Difficult but Essential Work
Forgiveness, though difficult, is the main way that characters move forward. By the time the Civil War nears conclusion, Mr. and Mrs. Lincoln recognize countless families divided by Union and Confederate loyalties. Emma appraises Mr. Lincoln’s second inaugural address, which is “full of forgiveness and reconciliation,” but highlights that “one side [of the country] would make war rather than let the nation survive, and the other would accept war rather than let it perish” (186). Mr. Lincoln’s address makes clear that both individuals and the nation face calamity and continuing conflict if they cannot find ways to forgive each other.
The Lincolns quickly realize the relevance of forgiveness when Mrs. Helm, Mrs. Lincoln’s sister and a Confederate supporter, visits the White House. Their warm reception of the Confederate supporter sets an example for forgiveness and reconciliation. Knowing Mr. Lincoln planned on the country’s reunification amidst more just policies for people of color makes his assassination all the more tragic. Before his death, Mr. Lincoln took inspiration from his religion, which roots itself in forgiveness as essential to progress.
Elizabeth finds peace in thinking about the mother of the man who killed George. In doing so, she can forgive the circumstances that led to her only son’s death: “She had prayed for her son every day and every night he was at war, and somewhere, the mother of the young man who had killed George had been praying for her son too” (186). Elizabeth recognizes how people from all different walks of life suffer, regardless of their ideology. She focuses on improving the quality of life for those worthy of her support while looking past the wrongdoing committed against her. By focusing on the positives within others, Elizabeth can find the ability to forgive.
In contrast, Mrs. Lincoln believes Elizabeth’s memoir is unforgivable. In failing to pardon Elizabeth, Mrs. Lincoln loses an essential friend with a proven record of support amidst a personal crisis. Elizabeth learns of Tad’s passing and remembers Mrs. Lincoln “keening endlessly as she had when Willie died, weeping and shrieking as she had after Mr. Lincoln had been killed. Elizabeth had been her most faithful companion in those dark days” (331). Elizabeth is anguished that she cannot support Mrs. Lincoln in her latest tragedy, and Mrs. Lincoln loses out on the support from a close friend. Elizabeth assisted in reviving Mrs. Lincoln after Willie and Mr. Lincoln’s death and would have likely done so after Tad’s death. Instead, Mrs. Lincoln stands by her estrangement from Elizabeth, her mental health deteriorating to the point that Robert forces her into a mental health facility. Mrs. Lincoln’s failure to grant Elizabeth forgiveness carries steep consequences.
